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August 28, 2016
 School InfoStaff DirectoryAmbro7th Grade Applied STEM     
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7th Grade Applied STEM; Periods 5 & 6

CO2 Car Section One Notes

CO2 Powered Race Car

 

Section One:  The Design Process

 

A.  Thumbnail Sketches- small simple sketches that help you get ideas for your design

1.     Eight (8) designs, profiles of cars, must fit onto a sheet of notebook paper

2.    Multi-View drawing- can better define the shape

a.     Side view- profile of the car

b.     Top view- how the car looks from the top, looking down on it

c.     Front view- how the front end of the car looks

d.     Rear view- how the back end of the car looks

3.    Only general details are required, does not need to be a masterpiece, keep them simple

4.    Choose only your best thumbnail for your multi-view and Final drawings

B. Final Drawings- final working drawings, blue prints. To be completed on the paper Mr. Ambro provides

1.     Full sized drawings based on the standard sized, wedge shaped, race car blank

a.     12 inches over all length

b.     1 ½  inches wide

c.     2 5/8 inches high at rear end

d.     ¾ inch high at front end

 

2.    Drawings must be full scale, life sized, showing all details in exact dimensions.

a.     Location of the axels is to be ¼ inch from the bottom of the block and in from each end according to your plans

b.     Location of the CO2 cartridge hole is to be centered ¾ inch in from each side and 1 inch up from the bottom of the block.

c.     Show true wheel size and placement (ghost them in)

1)    Rear Wheels are     1 9/16”  Outside Diameter

2)   Front Wheels are    1 7/16”  Outside Diameter

d.     Show placement of screw eyes in the bottom of the car, down the center line of the car, before the front wheel and behind the rear wheel.

e.     Show any and all other details such as scoops, cockpit, windows, fenders, etc.

 

           SECTION TWO:  Construction of the RACE CAR

 

A.   Detail layout- transfer all measurements from final drawings to the body blank- place drawings in folder to be photo copied

1.    Layout locations of the axel holes

2.   Layout location of the CO2 cartridge hole

3.   Layout the locations of the Screw Eyes

B.   Drill all holes- before any cutting or shaping begins

1.    Axel holes- use small drill press

a.    Install the 5/32” drill bit into the chuck, tighten   with chuck key

b.    Clamp body blank to table in proper location

c.    Drill all the way through the car blank

d.   Don’t chip out the bottom side of the block when breaking through the bottom of the hole

2.   CO2 cartridge hole- use large drill press and drilling jig

a.   Use the ¾” drill bit- leave it installed in the chuck

b.   Place the car blank into the drilling jig

c.   Clamp the drilling jig onto drill table with C-clamps

d.   Drill CO2 cartridge hole 1 ½”  deep

e.   Breakdown set-up and remove car blank from jig

 

C.   Shape body blank to desired design

1.    Mount the copied drawings to the body blank with glue stick

2.   Use the band saw to cut profile shape

3.   Re-adjust band saw guides and cut top shape

4.   Use belt sander to sand to rough finished shape

5.   Use Detailing tools ( chisels, files, gouges, Dremel tool) for any finish details (cockpit, windows, scoops, etc.)

6.   Hand sand to finished shape and smoothness

a.   Use all abrasives in proper order

b.   60 grit

c.   100 grit

d.   150 grit

e.   220 grit

f.   Have Mr. Ambro check between each grit

D.   Apply desired finish to finished car body

1.    All spray painting MUST be done in spray booth

a.    ONLY BASIC COLORS  will be available

b.    Special colors must be provided by students

c.    Use only painting spuds for spray painting

2.   Detail and other brush paints will be provided by the student, along with brushes and thinner for cleaning

a.    Brush painting is to be done at the work benches

b.    All brush painting MUST be done on news paper

3.   Stickers and decals can be applied after the car is completely dry (supplied by students)

E.   Install axels and wheels

1.    Get your choice of wheels (2 front, 2 rear), axels, washers and eye screws from Mr. Ambro

2.   Measure axels for proper length and have Mr. Ambro cut to proper length (if necessary)

3.   Insert axel in to wheel hub

4.   Slip on washer

5.   Slide assembly through proper hole in car body

6.   Slip on opposite side washer over axel

7.   Mount opposite side wheel to axel

8.   Repeat 3 – 7 for other axel and wheels

F.   Install eye screws in bottom of car

1.    Modify eye screws to accept the monofilament line

2.   Make hole for eye screw with scratch awl in proper location ( down center line, before and after axels)

3.   Screw eye screw into the hole in bottom of car

4.   Make sure that eye screw is at right angle to center line

5.   Test car on monofilament stand.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7th Grade Tech Class Notes 

 

                                          Rocket Design Criteria

 

     The following Design Criteria are based on the most efficient design giving the best performance and distance to the rocket.

 

I.             Rocket-Not a true Rocket, not self propelled

A.      Propulsion – what makes the rocket go

1.   Fired from a compressed air launcher

2.   Uses 60 psi (pounds per square inch) air pressure

3.   No guidance system, it is a projectile

B.       Physics –the science of motion

1.   Things that effect the flight of the rocket

a.      friction with the air – Drag

b.      Gravity-  what goes up must come down  (except 17000mph)

2.   Causes the flight –Newton’s 3rd  Law of motion  (For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction

 

II.          Parts and Components- the various pieces that are assembled to make up the rocket

A.      Core Launch Tube- the piece that fits onto the launcher and holds all the air pressure

1.   made out of construction paper, masking tape, cardboard, glue stick and yellow aliphatic glue

2.   18” long maximum (length of construction paper)

B.       Fuselage-the “body” of the rocket

1.   must fit over the CLT

2.   can be anything (almost)  NO METAL

3.   does not need to cover the entire CLT

C.       Nosecone –the pointy end

1.   help to penetrate the air- aerodynamic

2.   I will give Urethane Foam

3.   Students cover is with water putty for hardness and strength

4.   If you want something else student supplies: balsa wood, preformed plastic

D.      Fins- stabilizing elements to control flight

1.   Sheet styrene, supplied by instructor

2.   Large enough to interact with the air, small enough not to steer rocket

3.   Can be bent to cause rocket to spin

III.       Design Factors – limits and optimums

A.      Size –overall size and diameters

1.   Weight comes with size, too big, too heavy, too small not enough acceleration

2.   Too large a diameter and too much drag, too small and it won’t fit on launcher

B.       Weight- coupled with drag on launcher it may 

  Not launch

1.   Too much and thrust will no overcome it

2.   Too little no inertia, the feather effect

 

C.       Balance-where the center of balance is placed

1.   Too far forward and it will nose over

2.   Too far back and the back will out accelerate the front, tumble,

IV.          Materials

A.      Core Launch Tube

1.   Construction paper

2.   Masking tape

3.   Glue stick

4.   Cardboard

5.   Yellow aliphatic glue, woodworker’s glue

B.       Fuselage

1.   Anything but metal and glass

2.   Does not need to be a cylinder

C.       Nosecone

1.   Urethane Foam

2.   Water putty- hard protective surface

3.   Balsa Wood- hard to find, expensive

4.   Preformed plastic piece

D.      Fins

1.   Sheet Styrene – easy to cut and form

 

2.   Any material but no “sharp- blade like” materials.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                                             Rocketry Project

                                                    Sample Plan of Procedure Notes
 
I.    CORE LAUNCH TUBE-the part of the rocket that handles all of    the air pressure from the                         auncher
A.        Pre- Roll Paper- roll the paper into a tight cylinder NOT on the mandrill
1. To give the paper a set curve to make it easier to roll on the mandrill
2. Breaks the fibers of the paper to make it easier to roll-
B.      Apply Glue Stick
1. To a strip along the outside surface of the inside edge
2. Apply to 1” to 2” all along the edge
3. See (Fig. 1-A)
C.     Roll Paper onto Mandrill- the tool, a piece of PVC pipe, that the CLT is rolled around to set the Inside Diameter
1. The ID is 7/8”
2. Keep the paper wound as tightly as possible
3. Keep the ends flush, DO NOT spiral wrap the tube
D.     Apply Glue Stick
1. To the inside surface of the outside edge
2. Apply a strip of 1” to 2” all along the edge
3. Finish winding paper onto mandrill
4. See (Fig. 1-B)
E.     Tape Outside Seam- use masking tape
1. Use one continuous length of tape, not little overlapping pieces
2. Split the seam 50/50
3. Cut off excess, DO NOT fold down into CLT
F.       Plug One End- to make it air tight and reinforce it
1. Measure the inside diameter of the CLT- it should be 7/8” ID
2. Lay out a 7/8” diameter circle with a compass on a sheet of cardboard and cut out
3. Place cardboard plug into one end of CLT and tape in place
4. Using a small amount of “Yellow Aliphatic” wood workers glue drop it straight down the CLT to the plug.
II.   FUSELAGE- the external “BODY” of the rocket; which of the following methods you use to
                        mount your CLT into the fuselage depends on the Inside Diameter of the fuselage
A.      Centering Rings- if the ID of the fuselage is 1/2” or more larger than the OD of the CLT use this method
1.    Lay out OD of CLT and ID of fuselage as concentric circles on cardboard and cut out (make at least two, one at each end of the CLT) (Fig. 2)
2.    Slip centering ring over the CLT to check fit
3.    Slip centering ring into fuselage to check fit
4.    Glue centering rings onto CLT w/ Y.A.G., making sure that the CLT is recessed from the nosecone end at least 1” if you use foam or wood as the nosecone
5.    Mount CLT/Centering Rings into fuselage and glue into proper place w/ YAG
 
 
B.      Shims-use this method if the difference between the OD of the CLT & the ID of the fuselage is ¼” to ½”.
1.  Shims are rectangular pieces of cardboard that mount to the CLT and fill in the space between the CLT and Fuselage
2.  Cut several shims (1/4” wide X 1” long) and place between CLT and fuselage to see the number needed
3.  Mount shims opposite each other on CLT using YAG and masking tape (Fig. 3)
4. Glue CLT/Shims into fuselage in proper location w/ YAG
C.     Tape Method     -use this method when the difference between the CLT and fuselage is between 0 + and 1/8”
1.      Wind as many wraps of tape directly onto the CLT until it fits snuggly into the fuselage
2.      DO NOT wrap too tight as to squish or deform the CLT
3.      Use YAG to glue the tape bands to the fuselage
D.     Direct Glue- use when you have more or less a perfect fit between the CLT and fuselage
1.      Apply YAG directly to the CLT and slide it into the fuselage
2.      Make sure that you keep a mandrill inside the CLT when forcing it into the fuselage
III.          NOSECONE-the tip of the rocket that pierces the air, it makes the hole for the rocket                              to pass through, should be aerodynamic.
A.                 Foam-Urethane foam (low or high density) (weight per volume, lbs./cubic foot); Styrofoam, expandable polystyrene beads
1.      Insert fuselage into foam block while turning it to cut the shoulder into the nosecone- ¾” to 1” deep
2.      Remove excess “collar” of foam from block
3.      Gently tap nosecone to remove excess foam dust from shoulder
4.      Apply a small amount of YAG to the sides of the shoulder, let dry until tacky
5.      Wrap side of shoulder with masking tape until it fits snuggly into fuselage
6.      Use belt sander to sand nosecone blank into a cylinder
7.      Use belt sander to sand nosecone to rough shape (leave plenty of material to hand sand)
8.      Hand sand nosecone to finished shape
9.      Glue nosecone into fuselage w/ YAG
10. Coat surface with reinforcing material (Durham’s water putty) allow to dry
11. Hand sand coated nosecone to a smooth surface (repeat steps 10 & 11 if necessary)
B.     Wood- Balsa Wood or if small enough a wooden dowel. (If you are going to use Balsa wood, buy it before you design the nosecone)
1.      Find the center of the bottom of block
2.      Lay out a circle the size of the ID of the fuselage
3.      Mark the sides of the nosecone block where the shoulder will end
4.      Lay out on the bottom and sides where to cut off the excess around where the shoulder will be.
5.      On the band saw, cut off the excess material to expose the “Square” shoulder
6.      On the horizontal belt sander, sand the shoulder into the block making sure of a nice tight fit.
7.      Using the appropriate glue, glue the nosecone into the fuselage and let dry
8.      Using the belt sander, sand the nosecone to it’s rough shape making sure to leave plenty of material to hand sand
9.      Starting with 60 grit abrasive, sand nosecone to it’s finished shape.
10. Hand sand until smooth using 80, 100, 150and finally 220 grit abrasives.
C.       Pre-Formed Plastic- holiday egg, bottle, funnel or anything with a good aerodynamic shape that fits well.
1.      If the plastic nosecone is fragile reinforce the nosecone with  suitable materials (wadded-up paper & glue, aluminum foil, water putty)
2.      Glue the nosecone to the fuselage using the proper glue.( YAG will not work on most plastics)
 
 
IV.   FINS
A.       Production- how to make them the same
1.      Determine the size  of the styrene sheet required to make ALL of the fins (length X width X number of fins)
2.      Get material from Mr. Ambro
3.      Lay out full size fin shape on material
4.      Cut out fin using aviation snips or large scissors
5.      Duplicate (trace) finished shape onto remaining material for the rest of the fins
6.      Cut out the remaining fins
7.      Bend bottom edge if desired
B.      Mounting- Use a “FIN JIG” to lay out and mount your fins
1.      Place rocket on fin jig
2.      Using a “Drafting Triangle” lay out the locations of the fin placement
3.      Mark the upper and lower limits where the fins are to be mounted
4.      Using a hot glue gun apply a bead of glue along the mounting line
5.      Place the mounting edge of the fin into the bead of hot glue making sure that the fin extends out in the proper direction
6.      Repeat for all remaining fins
7.      Remove from fin jig and clean jig if necessary
V.        PAINTING / FINISHING- applying a protective and decretive coating to the surface of your project
A.               Surface preparation- the number one key to a good paint job is surface preparation
1.      Surface must be sanded smooth- no pits, lumps or scratches
2.      Remove all dust, dirt and surface contaminants
3.      If you have a cardboard fuselage you need to seal the surface with the watered down glue mixture- don’t put on anything plastic
4.      Let dry thoroughly then lightly sand with 220 grit abrasive
5.      Mask off any areas you don’t want to paint- masking tape w/ paper or plastic
B.                Painting- ALL Spray painting is done ONLY in the Spray Booth
1.      One color is free all other additional spray coats are paid for
2.      Keep the nozzle  10” to 12” away from surface
3.      Keep the nozzle parallel to the surface
4.      Keep the nozzle moving
5.      Start spraying above or below the project and stop after passing all the way to the other end
6.      When finished place project and paint stand on top of spray booth
C.                Detailing-application of any hand paints, decals or stickers
1.      All detail materials must be provided by student
2.      Base coat must be thoroughly DRY- 24hrs
3.      Detail work can be done at your bench on newspaper

 

 

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